Have you ever run across a photo that takes your breath away? As in, your lips silently form the word “wow”, and you just can’t stop staring at it? That’s what happened when I ran across a cobalt and turquoise agate photo on Shutterstock. And I knew it was destined to become a DIY agate wall decor project.
One of the best parts of this agate art project is—No artistic skill is required! If you can use glue, scissors and a craft knife, you can do this!
I wanted to create a 3D effect for this art, so I used multiple copies of the photograph and layered them. Then I added different sizes of irregular glass stones, strands of clear glass and quartz crystal chunk beads. You’ll find complete step-by-step instructions below.
This project also contains a bonus. The leftover scraps can be used to make these lovely DIY agate photo coasters! They’re food-safe, water-proof and so pretty! Scroll down to the bottom of this post to learn how to make them.
There are tons of agate images on the web, so if you’re not madly in love with the one that I used, search for another that captures your heart. A high resolution image works best.
Print your photo on high quality paper. I actually took mine to a local copy & print store and had them print copies on 100 lb. paper with a gloss finish. This worked really well, especially since I needed a 12 inch x 18 inch size to fit my frame. Print a few extra copies to have on hand just in case you need a spare.
Then follow the steps to make your own beautiful, 3 dimensional agate photo wall decor.
supplies:
- multiple copies of a photograph (I used this image from Shutterstock, and then had it printed at a local copy/print store on 100 lb. glossy paper )
- spray adhesive (such as 3M Super 77 multi-purpose spray adhesive)
- scissors
- foam board (1/4 inch thick, available at any craft store or Walmart)
- hobby knife with a sharp blade or a clay “clean up” tool
- birch wood panel to use as a frame (choose a size that matches the dimensions of your photograph, or make your own using birch plywood and trim molding)
- paint for the wood panel
- quartz crystal beads, strings of small irregular shaped clear crystal stones, quartz strands, quartz nuggets and strands of glass beads
- strong, fast-drying, clear glue like Gorilla clear epoxy
- OPTIONAL SUPPLIES–
- clear epoxy resin (ArtResin is a great, non-toxic, BPA free, zero VOC, high performance option )
- heat source (heat gun/embossing tool or kitchen torch)
step 1: paint frame & adhere main photo
Place the wood panel as shown in the photo below, so that it resembles a tray, and then paint the sides. This will be the frame for your 3D agate art. To create a shiny metallic finish, I used Rustoleum Specialty Metallic Silver spray paint (available at a home improvement store like Home Depot or Lowe’s)– but chalk paint, acrylic, or even a can of latex wall color will work for painting the frame.
When the paint is dry, take one of the photograph copies and adhere it to the bottom of the wood panel frame using a spray adhesive. I used a can of 3M Super 77 Multipurpose Adhesive that I found at Home Depot, but any good quality spray adhesive will work.
Spray the adhesive onto the back of the photograph (holding the can about 6 -8 inches away from the paper). Wait a minute or so until the glue feels tacky, and then press the photo in place on the wood panel bottom.
The advantage of using a spray adhesive is that it will give you professional results–even coverage, great hold, and that fast drying time (minutes as opposed to hours). It will adhere the photo to the wood smoothly without bubbling or wrinkling the paper in the process.
Liquid glues like Mod Podge or school glue are not recommended for this project. They will cause your beautiful photos to wrinkle and warp, instead of giving you a clean, smooth professional look. Trust me. I learned this the hard way.
The only down side of the 3M multi-purpose spray is that it should be used in a very well-ventilated area. I also recommend covering your work area with plastic or old paper to protect it from the over spray.
STEP 2: CUT remaining photos
Now take a look at your remaining photograph copies. Look for any obvious lines or places where each photo could be cut in order to create a gradual layered effect. Then use scissors to cut away portions of each copy, keeping in mind that each successive photo will be stacked on top of the others.
Here is how I cut my photos–
step 3: adhere cut out photos to foam board
After the photos have been cut, use spray adhesive to adhere them to the foam board. Make sure the long edges of the photos are lined up against the side edges of the foam board. That will save you from having to cut those edges later on in Step 4.
step 4: cut out
After the adhesive has securely set (usually 15 minutes or less), cut the photos out of the board.
I found it easier to cut through the foam board in stages, making several passes with the knife blade, rather than trying to cut through the entire 1/4 inch thickness all at once.
Cutting tools that make the process easier:
–A small, sharp tipped hobby knife (like the one with the black handle above) for maneuvering around tiny areas and detailed cutting along jagged edges.
–An inexpensive retractable snap blade knife (like the one with the red handle above) along with a ruler for keeping the knife blade steady and straight when making those remaining long cuts.
step 5: stack
Now it’s time to stack and layer the photos for a 3D effect. Decide how much space you’d like between each of the layers. One option is to simply glue them directly on top of each other with no open space in between.
Or, if you’d like for a particular section to have more depth, you can elevate a layer so that it stands apart from the layers underneath. To do this, use some of your leftover scraps of foam board to raise and support the layer. Be sure to position the scraps far enough away from the open edges so that they will not show in the finished art.
I used a couple of L-shaped scraps between the 2nd and 3rd layer.
Once you’re happy with the layer arrangement, secure everything with glue. I used Gorilla clear epoxy–it’s strong and it dries in about 6 minutes.
step 6: embellish
Now for disguising those foam board edges.
Acrylic stones, glass beads, and glass crystals are a great way to cover the raw edges of the foam board while adding some 3D realism to the crystallized look of the agate slices. I used several different sizes of glass bead strands as well as these quartz crystal beads and crystal nuggets. These realistic looking quartz bead strands will also work.
For adhering these accents, I used the same syringe of Gorilla clear epoxy that I used in Step 5 for gluing the photo boards together. The epoxy is strong enough to hold the beads and crystals in place with no worries of them coming off. The quick drying factor helps a bunch when there are many pieces to glue.
To protect the photo layers from any accidental glue drips, you can use a sheet of wax paper, plastic or parchment paper to cover and protect sections of the photo while you are working. When gluing small pieces on the cut edges, I actually turned the frame on its side (vertical instead of flat on my work table). That helped to keep the quartz crystals from slipping off the foam board edge due to gravity. You can rotate the frame however you need to in order to keep the beads and crystals in place until the glue has set.
step 7: add resin (optional)
Adding a coat of clear epoxy resin to the photo layers is optional, but it’s a great way to give your art a high gloss protective topcoat. If you decide to add a resin topcoat, do your research, read reviews, and choose a quality brand.
ArtResin is my favorite brand as it is non-toxic and doesn’t have dangerous fumes. It has a zero-VOC formula (no Volatile Organic Compounds) and it is free of BPA. You can use this brand indoors without having to wear a mask or respirator. That is a huge plus if you prefer working in an indoor environment where you can control the temperature, have plenty of light, etc.
Different size resin kits are available, so you can easily find one that fits your project size and budget.
To learn how to mix resin, follow the steps HERE in this tutorial. It’s easy! Or follow the manufacturer instructions that are included in your kit.
level & prep
Before mixing and pouring, make sure your agate art is on a level surface. This is important because resin is self-leveling–if your art is on a slanted surface, the resin will migrate to whatever side is lower and will end up pooling there instead of making an even layer. Also make sure your work area is covered with plastic. Resin is super sticky!
mix equal parts resin & hardener
Measure carefully and use equal amounts of resin and hardener–if the amounts aren’t equal, the resin will not catalyze and harden correctly. My project was 12 inches by 18 inches, and I used 5 ounces of resin and 5 ounces of hardener to coat all the layers. If you are using milliliters, you will need about 148 mL of both resin and hardener.
Combine the resin and hardener together in an easy to pour container (like a plastic cup) and mix thoroughly. Stir for a full 3 minutes.
pour
Pour –being careful around the edges of the layers. If possible, avoid pouring the resin over the quartz crystals and concentrate on pouring it on the surface of the photographs on each layer.
Use enough resin to cover the art with a coat about 1/8 inch thick.
Next, use a heat tool or torch to eliminate bubbles created during the mixing and stirring process. Keep the tool or torch moving and avoid concentrating on any spot for too long. If you use a torch, the intense heat will get rid of the bubbles extremely fast. With an embossing heat tool like I used, it takes a bit longer. You’ll have 45 minutes before the resin sets to the point that it is no longer fluid and easy to work with. If your surface area is small, you will probably have the bubbles eliminated long before the 45 minutes are up.
Other than bubbles, the main thing to be on the look out for is dripping from the elevated layer down to the layer underneath. The resin may spill over the edge of the top layer, kind of like a waterfall, creating dripping strands that could become “icicles” if they’re not wiped away. A plastic knife or spoon can clear away drips before they harden.
step 8: dry & display
When all the bubbles have been popped and there are no drips, cover the resin with a clean container to keep dust out. The ArtResin instructions say to leave the art covered for at least 24 hours. It will be dry to the touch after that and will be fully cured in 72 hours. I normally just leave the cover on for the full 72 hours/3 days.
Add a couple of hangers on the frame back and your beautiful art is ready to hang on the wall. You can also display it on an easel. Either way, it will add a splash of color to your space.
step 9: now for those leftover scraps….
After creating your 3D agate wall art, you may have some beautiful sections of photos left over. I had several nice pieces and I couldn’t bear to just toss them into the recycling bin.
Here’s how you can turn those leftover scraps into DIY agate photo coasters.
First, cut several irregular oval shapes (about 3 to 4 inches wide) from your leftover photo scraps. Use spray adhesive to stick them to the left over foam board. Then, cut them out with a craft knife.
To cover the raw cut edge of the foam board, a great option is to use Creative Paperclay. This is a versatile air dry clay that is very easy to work with. It’s soft and pliable but dries to a hard, durable finish that can be painted and even sanded, if needed. For each coaster, you’ll need less than a golf ball sized amount of clay.
Roll the clay into a long skinny rope. Then squeeze a line of white glue around the foam board edge before wrapping the clay rope around the perimeter. The glue helps the clay rope to stay put until it dries.
After wrapping the clay around the edge of the foam board, use your fingers to gently press the clay rope so that the top edge of the clay becomes slightly higher than the surface level of the photo. It’s kind of like making a crater. Later, when you pour resin onto the agate image, that raised edge will serve as a barrier, preventing the resin from spilling over the side.
If left to air dry on its own, the clay border will take about a day to dry and harden. To get it to dry faster , place it in front of a heater or outside if the temperature is hot. You can also put it in a very low temperature oven (like 170 degrees) on a baking sheet covered with parchment paper and it will dry quickly, too.
When dry, paint the clay edges. I used Modern Masters gold metallic paint.
Then pour on a layer of clear resin (same as you used for the agate art). I used slightly less than 2 ounces of resin + 2 ounces of hardener to cover my 5 coasters. I also elevated the coasters using wood blocks just in case the resin spilled over. It’s easier to clean off the edges that way if there are drips. Also, if elevated, the coasters will not stick to the plastic if there’s an accidental spill.
Use a torch or heat gun to remove bubbles from the resin.
Then cover the coasters with a clean container or box to prevent dust from falling into the wet resin during the drying phase. Let your DIY agate slice coasters dry (covered) for 72 hours. After 24 hours, the resin will be dry to the touch, but it will take the full 72 hours for it to completely harden.
When finished, your agate photo coasters will be glossy and absolutely gorgeous!!
You can attach self-adhesive cork to the underside of the coasters to cover the foam board and make a nice skid resistant backing. You can also use inexpensive felt to cover the bottom.
And there you have it– beauty meets functionality! These DIY agate slice coasters are a work of art as well as a means of protecting your table surface.
They make even ordinary beverages so much more fun. Enjoy!
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